Oolong, or wulong as it's actually written nowadays - is an almost magical word that summarizes centuries of Chinese tea culture. The origin of the name (which means 'black dragon') is somewhat unclear. Perhaps a personal name, perhaps a euphemism for the black snakes that could be found among the tea bushes. Sometimes it is also called qing cha, i.e. blue-green tea.
What is oolong tea, and what is it good for?
When you cut into an apple and leave it on a plate, it soon turns brown in the cut, doesn't it? It is an oxidation, i.e. reaction with the oxygen in the air. Similarly, black tea turns black because various substances in the leaves have oxidized. If you instead only partially oxidize the tea, i.e. stop before the process is complete, then you get an oolong tea. It sounds simple, but it takes a lot of experience and training to get an even oxidation and to stop at the right time.
Oolong is a collective name for a lot of different teas. Lighter oolongs may be oxidized 15-20% and are somewhat similar to green tea, while darker oolongs are closer to black tea and are oxidized 70% or more. In the past, oolong was called 'semi-fermented' or 'semi-fermented tea'. This is not quite correct, because fermentation (bread fermenting, or wine) involves yeast.
The process may look slightly different on different plantations, but broadly follows the same pattern.
Amanda checks the tea leaves in the last step, "firing".
This is what all the steps look like:
Picking. Here, slightly larger, more mature leaves are picked than are used for green tea.
Aeration. The leaves are spread out on bamboo racks, and aired for a couple of hours to reduce the moisture content.
Oxidation. The most important process, which takes anywhere between 12 to 18 hours. The leaves are spread out at room temperature and stirred at regular intervals. The agitation allows the cells to break up slightly, releasing leaf juice for the oxidation. In mechanized production, the leaves are allowed to roll around in rotating cylinders at 25-30°C for around 8 hours.
Interrupting oxidation at the exact time based on the color, scent and texture of the leaves is tricky, and requires long experience.
Heating. The leaves are now heated to destroy an enzyme naturally present in the tea leaves.
Rolling. The leaves are rolled, nowadays usually in a machine, previously by hand on a bamboo mat. Darker oolongs often have a twisted shape, while green/light oolongs are often rolled into small balls.
Drying and possibly roasting. Drying takes place in a rotating cylinder or a bamboo basket for about 110-1
Where oolong is grown
Oolong originates from Wuyi-shan, in the Fujian province of south-east China. Many excellent oolong teas are still produced here. Guangdong also produces fine oolong teas. Taiwan has long since made a name for itself, and oolong from Taiwan is still called 'Formosa oolong'. Nowadays, there are also oolongs from India and Ceylon, etc., but it must be admitted that China/Taiwan retains the lead in terms of quality.
Different producers have different varieties of process, and also use different varieties of tea bushes, known as cultivars. Just as there are different varieties of apples, there are different varieties of tea bushes, which are suitable for different types of tea. In China, the most common variety for making oolong is called Tie Guan Yin (just like the tea variety), while the most common variety in Taiwan, especially at high altitude, is called Qing Xin.
Organic tea farming in Wuyi-shan, Fujian province. Some of the world's finest oolong teas are produced here
How to brew oolong tea
Traditionally, oolong is brewed in a gaiwan, the traditional cup with a lid that only holds a little over a deciliter, or in a tiny pot. The dosage is then 6-8 grams per dl, which is a lot. The water should not be completely boiling, but 85-95°C is fine. When you dose so strongly, you brew many rounds on the same leaf, but of course it should be done on the same day. The first batch is usually poured off - this is called washing the tea. It's not strictly necessary, but it also rinses away the leaf residue that forms dust, and the drink is clear and beautiful.
The infusion time is usually 40 seconds to 1 minute the first time. Then you can shorten the time slightly, as the flavor releases faster. As the leaves release their flavor, extend the time to 1 minute and longer. You should be able to brew at least 5-7 rounds on the same leaf, sometimes many more.
It is of course also possible to brew in the "western" way, i.e. 12 grams per liter for 3-4 minutes.
Then you may not be able to brew more than 2-3 rounds
. Tip: When you go on a trip, you can put about 1 teaspoon in a 1 liter thermos, and let it brew for hours.
This is what we sometimes do when we want to make things really easy for ourselves.
Prepare in the morning, and you'll have tea all day.
It is often possible to make many brews on the same leaf.
Tasty delicacy
As mentioned above, oolong is usually considered one of the finer teas, and we jokingly say that real tea enthusiasts usually end their days in the oolong or pu'er swamp. Often a wide range of flavors is offered. The lighter varieties have a natural floweriness not found in other teas. Some oolongs also have fruity hints of peach or apricot. This is also one of the reasons why oolong tea is so good as a mealtime drink; there is always flavor left, which is not obscured by the food. Because it uses slightly larger tea leaves, the caffeine content of oolong is lower than in other teas
. The world's most famous oolong tea is probably Da Hong Pao ("The Great Red Cloak"). Other well-known varieties are Shui Xian ("Water Narcissus") and Tie Guan Yin ("Iron Goddess of Mercy"), but there are many, many varieties to choose from.
Organic tea farming in Wuyi-shan, Fujian province. Some of the world's finest oolong teas are produced here
It is often possible to make many brews on the same leaf.